You may have seen my name, "Henk", pass by on the Smartmarine site, in the newsletter, or you may have had contact with me yourself by phone, e-mail or at one of the water sports exhibitions. I am privileged to be part of the Smartmarine team, where I am in daily contact with customers and suppliers. This work is more than a job for me; it is a way to share my passion for water sports and technology. This is also how I got to know Hans, thanks to our shared passion for all things boat-related.
Together with my girlfriend and our dogs, we live aboard our sailboat. We don't want to compromise on comfort, while at the same time being able to sail and anchor freely without worrying about power consumption. I myself am a big fan of the airfryer, while my girlfriend prefers electric to gas cooking. Electric cooking is faster and avoids getting stuffy and humid on board when the oven is on.
With these wishes, we soon arrived at a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120. At the time, we had two large 140 Ah Varta batteries, but after a long time of orienting ourselves to other battery types and taking into account our energy consumption, we knew we needed at least 400 Ah of lithium. To make a good estimate, we simply noted down all our appliances, their power consumption and how long they were on for on average per day. This gave us a clear picture of our total energy requirements.
TIP: Meanwhile, we have a Victron Cerbo, which is really a gamechanger. It allows us to accurately see how much shore power and solar power is coming in and what our actual consumption is.
Despite having 912 Ah of battery power, we saw our consumption rise slowly. Useful extras such as smart lighting, wireless speakers and the Quark Elec multiplexer made our life on board a lot more comfortable, but also increased our power demand. Thanks to this multiplexer, we could not only monitor everything on our two plotters, but also on our phone and tablet.
In the summer months, we were fine with our 810 Wp of solar energy and 912 Ah of lithium, which even allowed us to use the dehumidifier from time to time.
TIP: We have installed an additional relay so that when the batteries are over capacity, the boiler can be switched on automatically.
Nevertheless, we saw our State of Charge (SOC) gradually decline. Sometimes we had to reduce our consumption, which we preferred not to do. Additional solar panels were not an option, as that would be at the expense of the look of our sailboat. A wind generator was not a solution either; we had tried that on a previous boat, and it was not a success for several reasons.
Switching to a high-output alternator
Our Yanmar 4JH2TE had a standard Hitachi alternator, which got very hot and caused the temperature in the engine compartment to rise considerably - sometimes up to 60 degrees. Moreover, when the engine was hot, this alternator did not deliver the full 60 amps to the starter battery, but often only 15 amps.
The starter battery charged our lithium battery bank via a Victron Orion 12/12-30, but this was far from ideal. We therefore started looking for a more efficient solution and delved into dynamo controllers. Unfortunately, these only work with an alternator that has a field connection has, and our Hitachi alternator did not have one. So we had to look further.
After extensive research into different brands high-output alternators and contact with several manufacturers, Electromaax remained as the best option. Their quick and expert response gave confidence, and it also happened to be the most economical solution. Acquaintances had already successfully installed their alternators, and when Sailing Millennial Falcon, whom we have been following for a long time, posted a video during the same period about the Electromaax alternator, we were sure we were in the right place.
Smartmarine was now the distributor for Electromaax and initially I wanted the Cruiser 160A purchase. But after much thought, I decided to make the best choice right away and invest in the Genmaax 250A. This not only offered 90A of additional load capacity, but also had a remote rectifier, which increased efficiency and enabled thinner DC cables.
TIP: A major concern with high-output alternators are power surges, which can damage alternators and even interfere or affect the rest of the 12V system. Some devices may even break down as a result. To eliminate that risk, we also have a SSP added to the system.
Lastly, we had to take the old V-belt and serpentine belt replaced by an appropriate and more reliable system. Fortunately, Electromaax offers pulley kits, and a perfect set was available for our Yanmar.
Thanks to this upgrade, we can now charge much more efficiently and enjoy a self-sufficient energy solution, without compromising on comfort. An investment we have not regretted for a moment!
CLICK HERE TO UNFOLD INSTALLATION REPORT ↘️
Preparing for installation
I started reading the manuals for the controller, SSP and Genmaax. These clearly explain what to do, with various diagrams for a variety of installations.
TIP: The logical next step was to draw my own diagram integrating the new Electromaax system into my existing system. This not only helps in figuring out the installation, but also allows to calculate cable lengths and thicknesses in advance, making the installation smoother.
The cable thicknesses in the Electromaax manual are given in AWG. I converted this to mm² using this diagram:
| AWG | MM2 |
|---|---|
| 20 | 0.5 |
| 18 | 0.75 |
| 17 | 1 |
| 16 | 1.5 |
| 14 | 2.5 |
| 12 | 4 |
| 10 | 6 |
| 8 | 10 |
| 6 | 16 |
| 4 | 25 |
| 2 | 35 |
| 1 | 50 |
| 2/0 | 70 |
| 3/0 | 95 |
| 4/0 | 120 |
Another advantage of drawing the system in advance is that any thinking errors are already ironed out. Should there be a problem later, I can send the diagram and troubleshooting can be done more easily. Moreover, in the future, it will be useful to be able to quickly see how the cabling runs in sometimes stressful situations, without having to figure it out on the spot.
Now that everything was well thought out and prepared, it was time to order the set via Smartmarine. I still had many of the cables lying around from a previous project, which again saved on costs. Once everything was in, I could take the next step towards a completely off-grid energy system and start the installation.
I was initially unsure whether I needed an SM or FM mount for my bike, but after checking, it turned out that the correct mount was advised. For the remote rectifier, I had two possible locations: under my bed near the batteries or in the engine bay.
TIP: After discussion, I opted for placement in the engine bay because I will also be installing ventilation in the engine bay during this project. This will benefit the remote rectifier and final efficiency.
Installation
Finally, I was able to get to work! We had a weekend of bad weather ahead of us, which meant I could safely spend a few days in port and focus entirely on the installation.
Step 1: Install pulley kit
In my kit, the right pulley was already on the Genmaax, but I also had a crankshaft pulley and a water pump pulley. The process actually speaks for itself: the crankshaft pulley fits around my engine's original crankshaft, and the water pump pulley needs to be replaced.
TIP: There is a trick to getting the water pump pulley loose: unscrew the water pump pulley first, then loosen the alternator to remove the V-belt. If you loosen the V-belt first, the water pump pulley turns with it, and you won't get it loose without a big water pump pliers. So should you want to install a pulley kit: always start with the water pump pulley and then take the tension off the V-belt by unscrewing the alternator.
Once the water pump pulley and alternator are loose, the V-belt can be removed.
TIP: During my preparation on the computer, I had already followed the alternator cables and looked up an old manual, so I was sure which cables were for what. This was the time to take a few more photos, especially of the back of the alternator, just to be sure. To get it absolutely right, I grabbed my old notes and temporarily labelled the cables. I then disconnected them one by one and wrapped them with vulcanising tape for safety to avoid unsafe situations.
Once all cables were loose, the alternator could be completely removed. So at this point I had no V-belt, no water pump pulley and no alternator.
Then I fitted the crankshaft pulley with the provided anti-corrosion paste and a Loctite-like agent for the bolts. I did the same for the water pump pulley and the alternator with the new tensioner. Finally, the new wide serpentine belt could be put on. What a difference! Not only does it look cool and professional, but it is also a nice idea that no more belt dust gets into my engine compartment and my lithium batteries are efficiently charged. In my case, the whole process took only an hour and was not too bad at all.
Step 2: Mounting the remote rectifier and wiring
This step took me a little longer and is difficult to describe in detail. In a nutshell, it came down to:
- Making a bracket to place the remote rectifier neatly and straight in the engine bay.
- Run all the wiring and attach the cable lugs.
- Connect the controller cables (labelled for extra overview).
- Installing the shunts, where I placed the negative shunt directly behind the Victron shunt.
On the controller from Electromaax, there were two loose blue cables on the red connector. On these, I put a switch so that I can always halve my field.
TIP: I have placed this switch next to the controller, but I am considering moving it to a more accessible place, such as near the steering position, to allow faster switching.
My thorough preparation allowed me to connect the wiring of the alternator, remote rectifier, SSP and regulator without any problems. Nevertheless, it was still more work than expected, and I actually spent the rest of the weekend working on this.
Step 3: Installing and configuring software
After checking everything again, it was time to connect my computer via the provided USB cable and install the controller programme (note: only compatible with Windows).
At first, the programme looks overwhelming, but when you calmly go through everything, it is actually not too bad and the setting options actually turn out to be pleasant. As described in the manual, I first had to perform calibrations. This is crucial for accurate measurements.
With me, the shunt calibration did not work initially, because I had reversed the plus and minus shunts. I later reported this to Electromaax, and they fortunately adjusted it immediately by adding clearer labels.
Then I set the set to LiFePO4 and saved the settings via "Write Settings." To check that everything was saved correctly, I closed the programme and restarted it. Everything appeared to be set correctly. I then:
- Adjusted the warnings and maximum alternator temperature slightly downwards.
- Further adjusted the loading profile.
- Activated the Field Curve by entering an "X" at "Field/RPM" and adjusted the values to my preference.
TIP: Changes to the programme can only be made when the engine is off.
Step 4: The test - start the engine!
After checking the settings, I could move on to the most exciting and beautiful moment: starting the engine and seeing if everything worked.
TIP: My friend started the engine and stayed there on standby, while I used two computers to monitor everything. One was logged in to the Electromaax programme, the other to the web interface.
First, I looked to see if the pulley system was running properly - and it did! Then I looked at the software, and everything worked even better than expected. The field reduction switch functioned perfectly, and I had it switched on immediately (note: this can only be done when the engine is on, as it starts off by default). At first, I was excited because we are talking about 250 amps on 12V - no cat's pee!
In retrospect, I am glad I chose the Electromaax controller. I was in doubt at the time between the WS500 and the Electromaax, but the WS500 fell off for me because of:
- The high price
- The dipswitch configuration, which I am not a fan of
- The limited added value without Victron batteries
- No response from Wakespeed to my questions, while Electromaax did help me well
In the Victron Cerbo, I can still see that current is coming in from the alternator, only it is not explicitly registered as 'alternator current' - which is not a problem for me.
Experience - what are my experiences after two years of use?
At first I found it exciting, but now I start the engine without worrying about how many amps the alternator delivers. Later, I adjusted some settings. For instance, the alternator now stops earlier than the solar panels when I am motoring. I also tuned the field curve further: I set the maximum output to 90 per cent, which in practice means 230 amps. In addition, at low revs, I increased the output slightly; first I started at 20 per cent, later I set it to 35 per cent.
If I was at anchor and needed more power, I simply adjusted the field curve for optimum loading speed. In practice, this was hardly necessary, as I already had enough charging power while sailing in and out of ports and anchorages. These were my main software adjustments.
I did encounter another problem: excessive belt dust and wear on the belt. Everything pointed to my pulleys not being properly aligned. With a simple string I checked this and indeed, there was a misalignment. On the water pump and crankshaft pulley, I could not change anything, but at the alternator I had a small margin. I tried to correct this with washers, but that didn't help. In the end, I called in a professional. He advised me to put the alternator back as it was, without washers, and look under the crankshaft pulley instead.
So: alternator off, belt off, crankshaft pulley removed... and then a bell immediately rang: rust. There was still rust on the original crankshaft pulley, which meant that the Electromaax pulley could not be mounted completely flat. After sanding it clean, cleaning it and coating it with anti-corrosion agent, the problem was solved and the belt ran perfectly.
All in all, I am extremely happy with a high-output alternator. For any lithium battery bank, I would recommend such an alternator; it is the only way to charge effectively from the engine with full control and safety. These alternators are specifically designed for lithium and the extensive setting options and monitoring are a big plus. In the beginning, I kept a close eye on this, but after a season of sailing it became less and less-now I don't even look at it.
What would I do differently next time?
Pretty little 🙂
If I had Victron batteries, I might have the Arco Zeus controller consider for full Victron integration. But that is again in a more expensive segment and let's face it: we sailors want something that works well at a reasonable price 😉
In conclusion
I wrote this piece on my own initiative, simply because I am so enthusiastic about this product. Before buying this alternator, I had read quite a bit about high-output alternators, but the performance has really exceeded my expectations. As with lithium batteries, it is a hefty investment, but definitely one that is well worth it.
And now that I work at Smartmarine, I also hear it back from customers: so far I haven't spoken to anyone who regrets buying a high-output alternator. On the contrary - it gives freedom, reliability and, above all, peace of mind on board. Exactly what you want when you are independently on the road.
